This reduces the need for repair or the level of repair. When possible test drill where your work, (such as a picture to hang or a cabinet), will probably cover your test drill holes. Note also things like electrical outlets and heating outlets are usually attached to a stud a one one side or both. Measure from an exterior corner 16 inches and start drilling every half inch on both sides of this 16" location until you find the stud. Fear not you can repair huge plaster damage easily and small drill locating holes easier still. Likewise I would bet that previous owners have added their marks.holes and repaired damages that we who now own the house tend to "look past". It was done by hand and so has imperfections. It is a bit of plaster laid by hand over lathe and studs. We who have not done much renovation work in a house tend to view the house as some complex, expensive construct when in fact they are generally made of the most simple technology and easily repairable. Use a a small drill bit and remove all doubt. Hell, I've seen studs that have been pieced together from scraps of 2x's. The best ones to deal with are the owner built homes - 20", 16", 12", whatever inch spacing they felt like. Probably no fireblocks in that house either. Pull the wire out, lay it on the wall, and estimate where the stud is. Bend it until it's feeding more or less parallel to the wall while feeding it in. If all else fails, I drill a small hole, take a couple of feet of wire, and feed it into the hole. Work off of outlet boxes, switch boxes, etc. ![]() ![]() Often times that low angle light will show nail depressions. IAC, this is what I do, if I can't pull base.įirst thing I'll do is take a decent flashlight, turn it on, and while holding the barrel against the wall, or close to it, shine the light across the wall. ![]() I prefer to play it safe for peace of mind.Is the drywall about 2 feet wide, laid horizontally? Buttonboard? Wire lath and plaster? I see them in Southern California pretty often. You cannot lift them single handed (well I can't anyway) and you really do not want them coming off. Whilst possibly over the top but these radiators are seriously heavy and more so when filled with water (they take a lot). With the larger verticals and no feet I found it easier to take down the lathe and plaster and build a studwork frame to suit the radiator fixings before plasterboarding and re-skimming. With the largest of the column cast iron rads I have fitted I removed a horizontal rectangle of the lathe and plaster and fixed timber at the height of the studs before plastering back over. I would strongly recommend buying the Zircon stud detector which I have found excellent and picking up the line of small lathe nails. The radiator stays can go between any of columns to suit the stud spacing. The advantage to the columns is you have much more leeway that with the majority of standard radiators where it will be fixed. In my experience the rad brackets never align with two sets of studs even with the small amount of horizontal play. Still I would want it fixed to the studs. The majority of the weight is being directed straight down. ![]() With the rads like the one pictured I would use feet like mentioned above if at all possible. Current task is a wall hung vertical weighing in a 68Kg dry to lathe and plaster. Have had and am still having the same problem as yourself.
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